How to Make Your Own Plantable Seed Paper at Home
Updated 1 July 2025
How to Make Plantable Seed Paper
There is a unique alchemy in papermaking—the art of transforming disparate fibres into a unified, beautiful sheet. When you add seeds to that process, you elevate the craft even further, creating a living message that can be planted to grow. This is the magic of seed paper.
This guide is designed to be the only resource you'll need. Grounded in the expertise of master papermakers, we will walk you through every critical step, from creating the perfect pulp to pressing a perfect sheet. We'll explore the science behind the craft, troubleshoot the frustrating issues that trip up beginners, and even share the secrets that separate good paper from great paper. Prepare to get your hands wet.
In this guide we use free form moulds. If you want to make seed paper sheets like a papermaker, please see The Complete Papermaking Guide
A Papermaker's Toolkit: Gathering Your Materials
The Materials
Paper for Pulp:
The soul of your paper comes from its recycled content. For best results, use uncoated paper like old letters, office print-outs, and paper bags. Avoid glossy magazines. The quality of your recycled materials directly impacts the final texture and durability of your paper, a core principle we explore in our article on the environmental benefits of recycled paper.
2. Water:
The lifeblood of the process, used for soaking, pulping, and forming.
3. A High-Performance Blender:
Necessary to break down the paper fibres into a smooth, consistent pulp. Don’t use your kitchen blender (paper scraps contain chaemicals). Pick up a cheap second hand blender from MarketPlace.
4. A Mould and Deckle or free form:
Mould and Deckle: This is the two-part frame used to form your sheets.
Good: A DIY version made from an old picture frame and sturdy mesh or window screen.
Better: A dedicated papermaking mould and deckle, which will provide more consistent results.
5. A Vat or Basin:
Must be large enough to comfortably submerge your mould and deckle.
6. Couching Sheets & Pressing Boards:
In professional papermaking, woven cloths (couching sheets) are used to transfer the wet pulp. The sheets are then stacked between two flat boards and pressed to remove water. For home crafters, absorbent felts, flannel sheets or old towels are fine.
7. Sponges:
For blotting excess water.
8. Weights (or a Press):
Heavy books, bricks, or a proper book press to apply even pressure.
9. Seeds:
The heart and soul of plantable paper. Choose small, hardy seeds. For those in Australia, using native varieties can create stunning seed paper Australia that supports local biodiversity. Lemon Scented Bottlebrush or Swan River Daisy are perfect. You can learn more about the types of seeds in seed paper and how they contribute to sustainability.
Choosing Your Seeds: The Heart of Plantable Paper
The seeds you choose will define your paper's purpose and potential.
Seed Selection:
Opt for small, non-invasive seeds with good germination rates. Wildflowers, poppies, basil, parsley, chamomile, and carrots are excellent choices. For projects in Australia, consider native seeds like Lemon-scented Bottlebrush, as detailed in our guide to seed paper varieties.
Seed-to-Pulp Ratio:
Finding the right balance is key. Too many seeds will weaken the paper; too few will be disappointing. A good starting point is ¼ teaspoon of seeds per A5-sized sheet. This prevents overcrowding and gives each seed space to sprout.
Avoid:
Large seeds (like beans or sunflower seeds) as they will fall out, and seeds that are known to be oily or have very specific germination needs.
The Papermaking Process: A Masterclass in 8 Steps
Step 1: Create the Perfect Pulp
Tear your paper into small, 1-inch squares. Place them in your blender and cover with clean, warm water. Blend for 30 to 60 seconds. Under-blending creates weak, patchy paper, while over-blending can make it too dense. You're aiming for a smooth, consistent slurry.
Step 2: Charge the Vat
Pour your pulp into the vat. Add more water and stir with your hands, breaking up any clumps. The ideal consistency is like thin milk, where the fibres are suspended gracefully in the water.
Step 3: Add the Seeds
Now, gently stir your seeds into the pulp with your hands or a spoon. Never put the seeds in the blender, as this will destroy their viability. You want to distribute them evenly without causing any damage.
Step 4: Pull the Sheet
Hold the mould (screen side up) and deckle (the open frame) together firmly. Dip them into the vat at a 45-degree angle, then level the frame beneath the surface and pull straight up in one smooth motion. Give the frame a gentle front-to-back and side-to-side shake to help the fibres lock together evenly on the screen. Let the water drain for a minute.
Step 5: Couching (The Transfer)
"Couching" is the art of transferring the wet pulp from the mould to your absorbent surface. Remove the top frame (the deckle). Place the edge of the mould firmly onto your couching sheet, and in a single, confident rocking motion, press it down.
Step 6: Build Your Post
Cover the sheet you just couched with another absorbent felt or cloth. Repeat the process, creating a stack of paper and felt layers. This stack is called a "post."
Step 7: Pressing (The Most Critical Step)
Pressing is what gives handmade paper its strength, stability, and smooth finish. Place your post between two pressing boards and apply even pressure.
Why Pressing is Non-Negotiable:
It Removes Water: Efficiently removes most of the water, preventing warping and dramatically speeding up drying time.
It Bonds the Fibres: Forcing the cellulose fibres closer together creates strong internal bonds, resulting in a durable sheet.
It Creates a Smoother Surface: Pressing flattens lumps and bumps, creating a more uniform surface suitable for writing or crafting.
It Helps the Seeds: For seeded paper, pressing ensures the seeds are perfectly embedded near the surface, ready for germination, rather than trapped deep inside a soggy sheet.
In short, pressing creates paper that is not just pretty, but functional. For a deeper look, you can explore the science behind biodegradable and seed paper.
Step 8: Drying
Carefully separate your damp sheets from the couching felts. Lay them on a flat, absorbent surface (like dry cloths or a drying rack) in a well-ventilated area. Never use direct heat, ovens, or microwaves, as high temperatures can kill the seeds. Let them air dry completely, which may take 1-2 days.
From Mess to Masterpiece: A Guide to Common Mistakes
Even experienced papermakers run into trouble. Here’s how to fix the most common beginner issues:
The Mistake: Incorrect Pulp Consistency.
The Problem: The paper is too bulky, or it's flimsy and falls apart.
The Fix: Aim for that "thin milk" consistency. If it's too thick (like a smoothie), add more water to the vat. If it's too thin, add more blended pulp.
The Mistake: Uneven Sheets.
The Problem: Sheets are thick on one side and thin on the other.
The Fix: When you pull the sheet from the vat, make sure your mould is level. Use a gentle side-to-side shake to distribute the fibres evenly before the water drains completely.
The Mistake: Trouble with Couching.
The Problem: The paper rips or sticks to the mould during transfer.
The Fix: Be confident and steady. Press the mould firmly onto the couching felt in one smooth motion. Don't hesitate or lift too slowly.
The Mistake: Warped or Curled Paper.
The Problem: The final dried paper isn't flat.
The Fix: This is almost always a pressing issue. Ensure you've pressed out as much water as possible. For perfectly flat sheets, you can "restraint dry" them by placing the damp sheets between dry cloths and putting them under a board with a light weight.
The Mistake: Dirty or Contaminated Paper.
The Problem: Future batches have mould spots or discolouration.
The Fix: Thoroughly clean all your equipment—vat, blender, mould, and sponges—after each session and allow them to dry completely.
Level Up: Secrets from a Master Papermaker
Controlling the Deckle Edge: The beautiful, feathery edge of handmade paper is called a "deckle edge." You can control its appearance. A slower pull with less shake creates a more pronounced, rustic edge. A faster pull and quick shake creates a finer, more subtle edge.
Adding Inclusions: Embed pressed flowers, leaves, or colourful threads into your paper. You can either mix them into the vat or lay them carefully on the sheet right after you've pulled it from the vat, lightly pressing them into the pulp before couching.
Using Natural Dyes: Add natural colorants like turmeric (for yellow), beetroot powder (for pink), or spirulina (for green) to your pulp after blending to create stunning, vibrant paper.
Reading the Vat: As you make more paper, the pulp-to-water ratio in the vat changes. A master papermaker learns to "read" this change by feel and sight, adapting their technique on the fly to ensure every sheet remains consistent.
For more papermaking projects and tips, you can explore our complete papermaking guide.
Your Questions Answered
Q: What is the best paper to use for making seed paper?
A: The best paper to use is uncoated, non-glossy recycled paper. Things like old office print-outs, envelopes, and paper bags work perfectly. Avoid using glossy magazines or flyers as their clay coatings do not break down well into pulp.
Q: Why is my homemade seed paper weak and falling apart?
A: Weak paper is usually caused by two common issues: under-blending the pulp, or not pressing the paper sheet firmly enough. Pressing is a critical step as it forces the paper's cellulose fibres to bond together, creating a strong, stable sheet.
Q: Can I use any kind of seeds for my paper?
A: It is best to use small, non-invasive seeds like wildflowers, herbs (basil, oregano, parsley), or poppies. Large seeds like sunflowers or beans are too big and will fall out of the paper pulp. Always use fresh seeds for the best germination rates.
Q: How long will the seeds in my handmade paper last?
A: If you store the finished seed paper in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, the seeds can remain viable for one to two years. The exact time depends on the specific seed types you have used.
